North-West Corner, Torre Barancio (IV, 3 pitches), Cinque Torri, Dolomites, Italy

July 3, 2006


Via delle Guide, Torre Grande, West Summit

North-West corner, Torre Barancio

Via Miriam, Torre Grande, South Summit

The next day be climbed Torre Barancio (2308 m) via two classic grade IV routes: the North-West corner and the North face.

Torre Barancio, Cinque Torre, Dolomites, Italy

Elvira approaching the North-West corner (IV) between Torre Barancio (left of the crack) and Torre Romana (right of the crack). We also climbed the route "Dibona" (IV) on the middle of the North Face of Torre Barancio seen on the right half of the picture.

We started out with the North-West corner, which was like an open book with a big crack where the two faces joined each other. At two places the crack turned into an off-width which I obviously didn't like to climb - they are always very awkward!

Elvira climbing one of the off-widths of the corner.

However, for the most of the climb it was very nice climbing where it was possible to stem out on both faces for great balance. Occasionally, the route went onto the face of Torre Romana where the second belay was also located. As most climbs in the Cinque Torre area, the route had a few pins where it was absolutely necessary which could then be supplemented with more or less questionable nut and cams. Again, I didn't really enjoy the rock quality or the pro placements, so I was glad I was climbing well below my limit!

Elvira above the off-width where she can stem out on both faces of the corner.

The first two pitches follows the crack in the corner, where after the route goes up the east face of Torre Barancio. In particular this last pitch was on loose rock - and yet again I wondered why this area had become so popular!

Elvira exiting the corner and climbing onto the east face of Torre Barancio. The face was not hard to climb - just lots of loose rocks and lousy protection......

As we summit Torre Barancio we rappel the south face using in situ anchors. We quickly run around the tower and then climb the North Face route, which turns out to be a nice face climb with somewhat better protection (or maybe it just felt better because I am better at face climbing than off-widths!?).

Elvira topping out on Torre Barancio. Some of the other smaller towers are seen behind her.

As we summit the Torre Barancio, the weather turns on us and it starts to drizzle. Alarmingly, it also began to thunder and we thus got our stuff together really fast and got down the rappel route on the south face, while watching a beautiful rainbow in the misty mountains.

As we climbed Torre Barancio the second time that day the weather changed to rain, thunder and a beautiful rainbow showed up.


Next page (Via Miriam)


Last update: 20-5-2007

© Hans Bräuner-Osborne